Heirloom seeds for hardi zone 8 A and ecoregion 4 A.
General None Given
Can someone please clarify why it's important to know both the eco region AND the hardy zone? Is there a correlation between the two?
Also, my family is supposed to be in region 8 A, but I'm not sure that's correct. This is a mountain valley (Southwest Washington @ 750 feet.) with its own micro weather system. Heck, we even had some frost a week and a half ago. I was a little concerned about it ruining our garden plants.
Any suggestions about whether I should stick with plants for region 8 A, or is it advisable for me to start with seeds from zones more hardy than here?
We would like to do our best to garden through the winter and alternate beds for spring, summer, and fall plantings so we can also harvest our own heirloom seeds at the appropriate times.
Thank you.
Also, my family is supposed to be in region 8 A, but I'm not sure that's correct. This is a mountain valley (Southwest Washington @ 750 feet.) with its own micro weather system. Heck, we even had some frost a week and a half ago. I was a little concerned about it ruining our garden plants.
Any suggestions about whether I should stick with plants for region 8 A, or is it advisable for me to start with seeds from zones more hardy than here?
We would like to do our best to garden through the winter and alternate beds for spring, summer, and fall plantings so we can also harvest our own heirloom seeds at the appropriate times.
Thank you.
Posted
by: Boyd McLaughlin
(3 points)
Posted: July 25, 2013
Answers
The Sunset Zones
http://www.sunset.com/garden/climate-...
are more accurate than the USDA zones, at least for the west, but those are only a starting point. Not only each region or town, but each garden has microclimates. It's important to become familiar with your site, and the best way to do that is -- to borrow a term from permaculture -- by careful and protracted observation. Finding other gardeners in your area is another good way to learn what varieties they've liked and what their planting schedule is.
If you don't already know about them, look for Eliot Coleman's books about gardening year-round. He's in Maine and uses cold frames inside hoophouses in the winter. I've read about other gardeners in cold-winter climates who have also successfully grown crops under cover.
added: I'm unfamiliar with ecoregions, but they appear to be used for biodiversity conservation planning, rather than for gardening/farming advisories.
Regarding whether to pay attention to hardiness ratings: I'd use them as a starting point and see what works. If you have a garden around a house or other buildings (vs. open fields), you probably can find a bunch of warmer spots for specific plants. For instance, the radiated heat from a south-facing stone wall will provide a warmer spot than a low spot in an open area.
http://www.sunset.com/garden/climate-...
are more accurate than the USDA zones, at least for the west, but those are only a starting point. Not only each region or town, but each garden has microclimates. It's important to become familiar with your site, and the best way to do that is -- to borrow a term from permaculture -- by careful and protracted observation. Finding other gardeners in your area is another good way to learn what varieties they've liked and what their planting schedule is.
If you don't already know about them, look for Eliot Coleman's books about gardening year-round. He's in Maine and uses cold frames inside hoophouses in the winter. I've read about other gardeners in cold-winter climates who have also successfully grown crops under cover.
added: I'm unfamiliar with ecoregions, but they appear to be used for biodiversity conservation planning, rather than for gardening/farming advisories.
Regarding whether to pay attention to hardiness ratings: I'd use them as a starting point and see what works. If you have a garden around a house or other buildings (vs. open fields), you probably can find a bunch of warmer spots for specific plants. For instance, the radiated heat from a south-facing stone wall will provide a warmer spot than a low spot in an open area.
Posted
by: Tanya in the Garden
(128 points)
Posted: July 25, 2013
Boyd McLaughlin commented,
Thank you, Tanya. This is very good information. I appreciate your time and efforts. :-) over 10 years ago.
Thank you, Tanya. This is very good information. I appreciate your time and efforts. :-) over 10 years ago.
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