Mints belong to the genus Mentha and comprise approximately 20 species in the plant family Lamiaceae and are growm for their leaves which are widely used as a flavoring. Mint plants are mainly aromatic perennials and they possess erect, branching stems and oblong to ovate or lanceolate leaves arranged in opposing pairs on the stems. The leaves are often covered in tiny hairs and have a serrated margin. Mint plants produce a terminal flower spike and the flowers can be white or purple in color depending on variety. Mint plants are fast growing and can become very invasive. They can reach heights of 60–90 cm and will cpntinue to grow for many years once established. Mint may also be referred to by species and these include, but are not limited to peppermint, spearmint, water mint and Japanese mint.
Mint is a rapidly growing plant which is very easy to grow. It is best grown in partial shade to full sun and is generally very hardy, tolerating temperatures down to -29°C (-20°F). Care should be taken with variegated varieties which may scorch in full sun. Mint is very fast growing which can lead to it invading gardens quickly unless controlled. The best soils for planting mint are rich and moist with a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
Mint is readily propagated from seeds, cuttings or by dividing an established plant. Seeds should be planted in the Spring or in the Fall in areas that are free from frost. Seeds should be sown to a depth of 6 mm (0.25 in). Seedling should be thinned after emergence such that the plants are spaced 46 to 61 cm (18 to 24 in) apart. Established mint can be easily divided for transplanting by taking some branches along with a portion of root. Many people choose to keep mint in containers or sink the containers into the ground when planting to prevent mint from spreading uncontrollably.
General care and maintenance
Mint is very vigorous and should be pruned regularly to keep the plants in check. Remove any unwanted runners and pinch the tips of the plants back regularly. Mint may be fertilized in the Spring with a slow release fertilizer to supply it with nutrients throughout the growing season. Pinch of any flowers that form to conserve the flavor of the leaves. Essential oil content is reduced during bloom. In areas with mild winters, mint can be moved to a sheltered area of the garden to overwinter, otherwise the plant can be cut to the ground in the Fall. Container grown mint plants can be brought indoors.
Mint leaves can be harvested as soon as the plants have reached 8 to 10 cm (3-4 in) in height. Cut leaves and stems with a sharp knife or scissors. If harvesting whole stems, cut the stem at about 2.5 cm (1 in) from the soil line.
Buckland, K. & Drost, D. (2009). MInt in the garden. Utah State Cooperative Extension. Available at: http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/publication/Horticulture_Garden_2009-05pr.pdf. [Accessed 19 February 15]. Free to access.
Small, dusty, bright orange, yellow or brown pustules on undersides of leaves; new shoots may be pale and distorted; large areas of leaf tissue die and leaves may drop from plant
Infected plants and rhizomes should be removed to prevent spread; heat treatment of roots may help to control the disease; roots should be immersed in hot water at 44°C (111°F) for 10 minutes, cooled using cool water and then planted as usual
Category : Insects
Aphids (Peach aphid)
Small soft bodied insects on underside of leaves and/or stems of plant; usually green or yellow in color, but may be pink, brown, red or black depending on species and host plant; if aphid infestation is heavy it may cause leaves to yellow and/or distorted, necrotic spots on leaves and/or stunted shoots; aphids secrete a sticky, sugary substance called honeydew which encourages the growth of sooty mold on the plants
If aphid population is limited to just a few leaves or shoots then the infestation can be pruned out to provide control; check transplants for aphids before planting; use tolerant varieties if available; reflective mulches such as silver colored plastic can deter aphids from feeding on plants; sturdy plants can be sprayed with a strong jet of water to knock aphids from leaves; insecticides are generally only required to treat aphids if the infestation is very high - plants generally tolerate low and medium level infestation; insecticidal soaps or oils such as neem or canola oil are usually the best method of control; always check the labels of the products for specific usage guidelines prior to use
Stems of young transplants or seedlings may be severed at soil line; if infection occurs later, irregular holes are eaten into the surface of fruits; larvae causing the damage are usually active at night and hide during the day in the soil at the base of the plants or in plant debris of toppled plant; larvae are 2.5–5.0 cm (1–2 in) in length; larvae may exhibit a variety of patterns and coloration but will usually curl up into a C-shape when disturbed
Remove all plant residue from soil after harvest or at least two weeks before planting, this is especially important if the previous crop was another host such as alfalfa, beans or a leguminous cover crop; plastic or foil collars fitted around plant stems to cover the bottom 3 inches above the soil line and extending a couple of inches into the soil can prevent larvae severing plants; hand-pick larvae after dark; spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the plants (this creates a sharp barrier that will cut the insects if they try and crawl over it); apply appropriate insecticides to infested areas of garden or field if not growing organically
Thrips (Western flower thrips)
If population is high leaves may be distorted; leaves are covered in coarse stippling and may appear silvery; leaves speckled with black feces; insect is small (1.5 mm) and slender and best viewed using a hand lens; adult thrips are pale yellow to light brown and the nymphs are smaller and lighter in color
Avoid planting next to onions, garlic or cereals where very large numbers of thrips can build up; use reflective mulches early in growing season to deter thrips; apply appropriate insecticide if thrips become problematic
Leaves stippled with yellow; leaves may appear bronzed; webbing covering leaves; mites may be visible as tiny moving dots on the webs or underside of leaves, best viewed using a hand lens; usually not spotted until there are visible symptoms on the plant; leaves turn yellow and may drop from plant
In the home garden, spraying plants with a strong jet of water can help reduce buildup of spider mite populations; if mites become problematic apply insecticidal soap to plants; certain chemical insecticides may actually increase mite populations by killing off natural enemies and promoting mite reproduction